The wind god Anemoi proved rather unhelpful in allowing us to play on the west of Skye. As a result we opted for a tour de Knoydart.
Part 1. As we packed the kayaks in Mallaig beach on Sunday afternoon, Neptune sent a messenger from the sea with a chart indicating a range of wild campsites, some of which we were unaware.
A short 6km NW to Sandaig Bay found a delightful white sandy beach with flat grassy terraces ahhhh. Sten located an antler and Mike a through cave. The views South the Rhum look enticing. Cuckoos.
Now just where will I put those antlers. Anemoi was persistent with his southerlies, So north, saying close in, but still pushed by the waves and wind. A wild got watched us glide by. Just past Creag t Sagairt fish farm, so many pods , so many fish, but they refused Priley’s request for a free offering. Lots of cuckoos all day.
Into Loch Hourn and across the wind Linda found out the hard way the advantages of an evenly weight packed kayak. Lesson learnt for us all. The narrows at Coalas Mor provide fine flat camping area with cuckoos and fresh whelks to supplement dinner.
Views East to Knoydart, enticed the next day.
I have 12 tics, funny I have 8 …. is that all?…..…
Into a slight head wind, the end of Loch Hourn was attained where some tried in vain to paddle up the river and we spotted Scots and Norse.
The wind pushed us back to camp where we took a 2 hour lunch. Sten decided the antlers were in excess so passed their baton to Mike. More cuckoos. Wind behind another easy paddle to Croulin via free cuppa and water at a Loch side house. Midges descended at dusk, but this was to be their only appearance this trip. Linda spotted a cuckoo, wonder how many there are? The more gating, rock hopping in the surf. Didn’t know they might swim
The morning , as predicted brought a NE wind which pushed us nicely back to Sandaig Bay and beyond, in fact lunch near the Madonna monument and on for ice creams at Inverie. Then south into Loch Nevis where one again cuckoos welcomed us. The narrows provided camp, this time near a wee hoose at Pooh corner, and fresh cockles and mussels to supplemented dinner. The morning tic check push dsoem over 20 for they trip as cuckoos sounded as if in jest.
The morning saw the lads head East into a stiff force 4 aided by the current through the narrows, where wind met tide and the occasional waves rolled over the deck. Using small headlands we made reasonable progress to reach Sourlies Bothy at the head of the Loch in under 2 hours. The wind assisted return 75 minutes where a seal greeted us, with rather a large fish in its’ mouth
No antlers Mike? they’re in the hatch! Crossing Loch Nevis was kinda fun with the following winding waves, until the Madonna greeted our overnight stay.
Knoydart is designated as one of the forty national scenic area in Scotland, which are defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development. Unfortunately reality doe not match this. Many old sites with ruins have now been improved into modern holiday homes, which punctuate either shore of Loch Hourn and Nevs, with rather more regularity than need be.
The Friday Morning cuckoos saw us pull into Mallaig before driving south to Kilchoan after dropping a car at Ardtoe, where parking at £1 per day seems reasonable.
Part 2. Setting of from the jetty at Kilchoan in a SE force 2 wind with a force 4 sea, the waves having been set up in the sound of Mull for 15km.
As we headed west the wind increased, clapotis confused the situation. But the Mishnish peninsula on Skye decreased the fetch, so the wind driven waves subsided, only to be replaced by a 1.3 m swell form the west. However the long wavelength made the rise and fall somewhat enjoyable, as the SE wind and north bound current took us along at a swift rate.
The Ardnamurchan lighthouse, rushed by, overfalls? no just a line of froth. The west-most point of the British mainland yielded without too much fuss.
You will have to ask Linda how a locked bike, sea kayak and camper van all need up in the wrong place. Perhaps it was good thing she had time, having opted out of the final day paddle.
The NW coast guidebook stated ‘a fine campsite’ just round from Sanna Bay, cool. Until it rained for 3 hours, and we realised arriving at high tide offered different prospect to leaving at low water with rocks exposed. A fine sunset over the Hebredies and a blow hole kept us entertained. Camping fine, launching not so.
Anemoi proved kind today. A westerly to push us east, under km of cliffs, with the face of a spectre menacing us. Sandy bays and even a little rock dodging. A sea eagle circled Ockle point which proved a little more lumpy, before lunch, when the wind increased to 4. North to Rubha Aid Druimich, with beam sea, which again brought waves across the deck. The point rounded, all became calmer, before Pete left to rejoin Linda at Ardtoe.
Not to many campsites here. But for those that persevere reward indeed. Sandy beaches, flat salt marsh and forest pitches all rejected, until we located flat grassy and breezy pitch on a small headland- super.
Mike H, Sten, Angela, Pete and Linda visited the wilderness of Pooh corner.
Lakeland Canoe Club 