There’s a lot of building work going on at Whitehaven south beach. The beach itself, and the carpark, is completely inaccessible, blocked off by barriers and the road surface, no longer a surface. A quick switch to the marina car park and a bit of faff dropping off boats, shuffling cars, and gear. Didn’t take long though, and we were ready to go well ahead of my expected 11am departure.
Mike noted the fortuitous wind conditions forecast. Tail wind on the way out, tail wind on the way back. I’ll believe it if I see it! The following sea with tide and wind made for numerous small surf waves, heading exactly where we wanted to go. Mark clearly enjoys his new boat, quickly realising he may need to wait before he surfs into the horizon. Skirting the coast, chatting away, sun warming our backs and easy paddling. Could be the middle of August.
Approaching the cliffs of St Bees Head, I wasn’t expecting much in the way of rough water, but we re-grouped just in case. Instead we were greeted with calm seas, amazing views and a cacophony of nesting razorbills and guillemot. We were on the lookout for the UK’s only colony of black guillemots (as the guide says), but in the chaos and noise, I don’t think we would have spotted them, even if they were there. Another group of kayakers was met coming the other way, clearly enjoying the spectacle. They must have set off from St Bees, heading to Whitehaven, as we didn’t see them on the way back.
A quick snack stop in Fleswick Bay, mostly for a time check and to see the unusual rock sculptures carved by the sea. This beach is actually accessible by footpath, and a couple of fishermen and climbers were about on the nearby rocks. Well worth a visit, as you’ll be well away from the noise and calamity even in the height of summer. We didn’t stick around long though, our main stop was St Bees where I had an appointment with a cake and coffee from the cafe on the front.
The longer we waited, the more the wind and tide would be in our favour, so we weren’t in a hurry to leave. The sunshine and views helped too. Half one, it was time to move. We set off the way we’d come, amazingly with the wind and tide on our backs once more. The same surf waves returned us back past the squawking birds, across the bay and to Whitehaven in no time at all.
I did plan around the tides, and the weather, but couldn’t have imagined it would work out so perfectly. A cracking day out.
After the drive north we launched from Elie Beach at 14.30. Travelling West along the basalt coast , past quaint Earlsferry and Elie chain walk. As the cliffs subsided, we rounded into Largo Bay into a force 3 headwind. A pleasant paddle to stretch the arms. 13km
Mike
Day 2 Cambo Sands nr Kingsbarns to St. Andrews. Watch the waves!
Following Sundays trip lead by Mike H, Chris W arrived on Monday morning to lead us, Mike H, Tony F, David M and George W. This was part of Chris’s Sea Kayak leaders development.
The wind was forecast 3 – 4 SSE – SE all day, unfortunately fully blowing onto our beach/campsite at Leven. Chris came up with a plan to launch at Campo with the get-out at St Andrews, which entailed launching into the wind and surf. When rounding the point we would experience waves from the side, at that point a decision would be made on the actual conditions before continuing, Having rounded the point we would have a following wind to St Andrews. The tide less of a problem than the wind, although it would be favourable on the last leg to St Andrews. Chris asked if we were OK with the plan.
We arrived at Cambo beach and there were breakers over submerged rocks about 200 metres out, with exposed rocks either side, there being adequate space to safely access the open water.
Lesson 1: watch the waves.
I was second to go and duly paddled out through some of the larger breaking waves, I should have waited for them to pass, but I was focused on getting out into the calmer waters. Watch the waves and wait until the larger waves have passed!
Lesson 2: watch the waves:
We proceed around the point were it was lively but manageable so we decided to continue, Chris all the while ensuring we were OK and happy with the conditions. The waves were coming from the side and at times quite large and breaking. The surf session with Mike H on Walney last year proving invaluable, I deployed the bongo slide I had learnt on a number of occasions on the larger breakers, I was reassured to be able to avoid a capsize with some confidence. Its important to watch the waves to anticipate the waves ahead of them hitting you.
Lesson 3: watch the waves:
Having rounded the point we proceeded up the coast, which also presented many opportunities to Rock-Hop. There was quite a strong swell and waves, some breakers. My next lesson came upon being carried onto a rock by a breaking wave, I braced onto the wave and consequently bongo slid onto the rock. Mike H throughout this trip emphasised the need to watch the waves, had I seen it coming I should have driven over the breaking wave rather than allow it to slide my kayak onto the rock. I back paddled hard to drive back out and was able to recover without incident.
We arrived at St Andrews and paddled past the beach towards the castle. Upon turning to return to the beach it was quite clear how windy it was, arriving at the beach there was a small surf running.
Chris had us paddle individually through the surf to the beach. In the surf I was turned on a wave and it was clear I couldn’t correct the turn, so straight into a bongo onto the beach, my tuition proving invaluable again.
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It was emphasised the need to watch the waves continually whilst paddling, timing when to pass through, avoiding the large waves and timing when to pass through gaps, etc. Building my confidence in more difficult conditions, in winds 3-4 gusting 5 at times, good sized swells and waves.
George
Day 3 North Queens Ferry to InchKeith and return
Weather forecasts for Tuesday mentioned Force 6 on the North Sea Coast, so it was decided to retreat south to the relative shelter of the Firth of Forth. Chris had 2 plans in mind, depending upon conditions.The “put in” at the Forth Rail Bridge Forth Rail Bridge. Placid conditions, considering the dire weather forecast. A decision was made – Inchcolm Island.
We launched and turned left under the bridge (turning right had been the other option). Getting up close and personal to the Forth Rail Bridge was an amazing experience and kayaking definitely gives a unique view of this historic monument. Past the Tanker Berth (occupied by a huge Cruise Liner) and on towards Inchcolm Island. One of the sandy bays on the North side of the island gave us a sheltered landing, as well as a lovely view of Inchcolm Abbey. Historic Scotland provided a gift shop, toilets, guided tours and picnic benches, upon which lunch was duly taken. You have probably guessed that the Island is served by a tourist Ferry.
Picture 3. Lunch on Inchcolm Island
We carried on around Inchcolm Island and spotted some common seals.
Crossing Inverkeithing Bay, the wind and tide were sort of behind us and I got a lesson from Mike on “How to use a skeg to steer a kayak”. I have a lot to learn.
The Cruise Liner was still parked in the Tanker Berth, so we ventured for a closer look. Not too close though. Back under the Forth Rail Bridge and our “Get out”.
A trip with varied history, wild life and scenery. This is why I started kayaking.
Tony
Day 4 Cambo Sands, Fife Ness to Anstruther Easter
Our last day on the Fife coast, Fife Ness is a headland that protrudes furthest East on the Fife coast.
We wanted an early start to make the most of the day before driving home. With the cars packed and ready to go at 08.45 we headed off to continue paddling this section of the coast.
The wind had backed overnight to a North Easterly blowing 3 to 4 with the swell coming from the east, we were anticipating them helping us during the second part of our paddle. However, the mist made a chilly start to our paddle, Chris reassured us that it would lift by one.
This part of the Fife coast is rocky, and we enjoyed rock hopping and timing the swells to help our passage through fairly narrow. The height of the swells increased as we neared Fife Ness and the Coast Guard station. From this point we had a following sea and wind and soon arrived at Crail, a picturesque fishing harbour with smelly harbour mud. Fortunately, we were able to land on a sandy beach for our lunch. I spotted my first Swallows of the year (a little earlier than expected), there were plenty of eider ducks, gannets etc to be seen during the paddle but no seals.
After lunch still no sun, sorry Chris, but the mist was beginning to thin a little, we continued our journey in a South Westerly direction enjoying the challenges of rock hopping.
We passed Caiplie cave, a sandstone outcrop that looked like it was formed from rejected pieces of a Henry Moore sculpture. Our journey to Anstruther harbour was quick, riding the following swells.
It had been a very enjoyable few days exploring a part of Scotland that I had only driven through. Credit has to be given to Chris and Mike for putting together full paddling days despite the challenging weather forecasts.
Lakeland Canoe Club 