Good fortune is what happens when opportunity meets with planning.” – Thomas Edison. …
Somewhere in Sweden is a river, that not so many know. It is fed by snowmelt, only a short window of opportunity, would it be too high or too low. Would it be too cold or might we be dinner misquotes and black fly. There was only on way to find out. Plump for a date and hope for the best.
A week before we left it was still snowing and 10oC max. We took warm cloths and drysuits expecting cold and snow melt. As we arrived high pressure took charge of the weather. Each day we woke to bright sun. Nights were chilly at about 5-8oC rising to 20oC+ each day. Warm cloths packed drey bags, dry suits remained unused after the first day. The humidity was low, less than 50% so anything left on a line overnight dried by the morning. The river water was cold but enticing enough to invite the odd dip to refresh and invigorate. A few large mosquito were rather sluggish so proved not much a problem, however early blackly and smaller mosquito species became more abundant in the last 2 days. Seems by some methodology we had found a prefect time for water level, weather and bugs, – great planning!!!
To make the trip worthwhile length I chose to paddle the Gyrckan and Loan tributaries. Both would provide an opportunity to remind some of their open bait skills and fuse into a padding team.
Paddling.
Day 1 / 2 We paddled 21km on the Gryckan a small river, which flows from Gropabo around many bends through beautiful unspoiled forest.
Day 2 Finished 6km on the Gryckan, followed by 24km on the Loan river and 2km on the Voxnan to Blommaberg wild campsite.
Day 3 9km on Voxnan to Vinstrommen where a grade 4 list by road access. We picked up our food reserves and drove west to lake Siksjon setting of about 4.30 pm we travelled 9km to a camp on lake Klucksjon to find a fine wild campsite.
Days 4-8 we negotiated the Voxnan’s 61 identified rapids with 7 identified portages of which we lined one and paddled one.
Camping
We found river side campsites, mostly amongst pine / birch forests. In the lower course we found firsts and benches. Having split into groups on 4 and 3 for catering, meals became a highlight not quite knowing what recipes to expect, all very yummy though.
River level
There is only one gauge on the river, a Voxnabruk near our egress. On arrival it read 60 Cumecs having peaked at 100 Cumec in mid April. We found only 2 previous trip reports where a level of 30Cumec was recommended. By the time we started on the Voxnan the indicate level was 48 and fell to just 31 by the time we had finished.
This water level proved to be just right. The first 2 raipids on the Voxnan were scrappy, the rest had the plenty of water provided multiple route choices with most rocks covered. Plenty of challenge without being scary as Julian put it.
The rivers
Gryckan has only one grade 1, 2 grade 2, two grade 3 and a portage around a dam. The river is small and flows nicely with occasional tree hazards and many bends to maintain, ‘wonder what is next’. The water crystal clear.
Loan one grade 1 and 5 grade 2 rapids. One purge around a dam. This river is larger and flows nicely with occasional loops and many bends to maintain, ‘wonder what is next’. The water crystal clear.
Voxnan
Start on a lake then flow down tiny channel with one grade 3 and one grade 2, into a lake system. Just above Rullbo the flow set nicely. In the next 5 days we find 9 grade 1, 21 grade 2 and 29 grade 3 rapids. Most we run on sight, a few are more tricky and need inspection.
The timeless banks vary from 1m with beaver lodges to banks 20m or more. Long rodent shavings lie bedside gnawed trunks indicating frequent evidence of beaver activity. Piles of branches and mud pretend to hide their lodges.
Sand Pipers often flit around, The odd woodcock flies above and cuckoos break the silence. A serene place to chill and enjoy until a rumbling ahead needs more attention. Bright sunshine every day, emphasised the beauty of the boreal forest, mostly Scots pine and birch but here they grow tall and straight. The sun often plays on ripples and waves sprinkling diamonds all over teh surface, at times these glints hide rocks in rapids, adding to the challenge.
Portages
Rapid 12 Kanalen The river narrowed and entered a vertical side gorge only 5m high, mostly grade 3 with large waves but need with 2 holes and probable swamping. The portal involved a life around a boulder wall, 150m of shallow canal with a 50m portage to finish.
Rapid16 Hogforsen Steep granite bedrock slides into deep holes, 4 in row. We took a 2m wide canal river right to pool then a short 20m carry.
Rapid 25 Storlungsstrommen. A dam used to regulate water flow. More slide and nasty sucky holes portage right 200m.
Rapid 28. Akarlsstrommen. Boulder walls are used to channel the flow. Into a 250m long boulder filled way with bigger waves and holes. We took a lift over river right, short float down a side canal and lift kit 80m before sling canoes and paddling the last 50m.
Rapid 38 Krokstrommen a Rapid with a right angle bend half way. We found a route between many boulders and paddle it within problem.
Rapid 53 Hylstrommen Ofarbar series of spectacular falls covering 500m and dropping 23m. We took canal, river left, 100m before the falls. A portage of 1.25km is required to regain the river below the falls.
Rapid 60 Vinsstrommen 300m of continuous turbulence. We lined the first half with full canoes then paddled the rest.
The good fortune was shared by Mike H, Andrea, Pete R and Linda, Julian, Ian Mc and Rick a wonderful excursion somewhere in Sweden, Seems surreal now we are back.
Mike H
Lakeland Canoe Club 