14 – 17 June 2024
Our aim was a multi-day wild camping trip, heading south from Oban to Seil and Luing, and returning to Oban, but the weather had other ideas. So after discussing plans B, C, D we opted for a variation to suit the weather conditions.
Thanks to Annette, Julian and Sue for the following daily trip reports, and the biggest thanks to Richard for leading the trip.
Day 0: (Thursday) Off to a good start as the team (Richard S, Sue S, Graeme W, Julian and Annette) met in the Oban chippy to discuss the plans for our trip.
Day 1: Due to a very windy forecast we opted for a day trip. From The Puffin Dive centre (good value at £5.00 per day for car parking, with excellent access, toilets and kit washing facilities on the banks of the Sound of Kerrera), we headed north listening carefully to channel 12 as we crossed Oban harbour. In glorious sunshine, and some chop, we paddled past Maiden Island and on to Ganavan Bay, for ice cream. We learnt about the Sunderland flying boat which was based at the north end of Kerrera. Highlight of the day was the circumnavigation of Super Yacht Adix, owned by a Spanish billionaire. The day finished with a delicious Indian meal at the Taj Mahal. But it’s not all about the food. 18 kilometres paddled.
Day 2: The day dawned sunny and calm, so paddling to the max was called for and it was decided to go to the island of Seil to the south by heading north to paddle round the island of Kerrera first, anti-clockwise. We took the opportunity to have another look at the stunning sailing yachts moored off Oban and then turned west through the North Channel with the view of the islands of Lismore and Mull ahead. We hugged the west coast of Kerrera and had a refreshment stop in the last bay before reaching the southern tip where we had the decision to make whether to continue the circuit of the island back to the mainland or to head directly south across the open water to Seil. Given the calmness of the sea we plumped for the latter and in just over an hour we entered the archipelago of small islands where we intended to camp, a crossing of 5.5 kilometres.
The contrast with the open sea crossing was marked as we paddled through a narrow river like channel to land on a low grassy islet. The spot on the island of Buidhe was declared to be a good campsite and the hard work of deciding where best to pitch tents was quickly completed to allow for a relaxing evening of socialising around cooking stoves, enjoying the geology and botany and watching out to sea for wildlife and the sunset behind the mountains of Mull. 22 kilometres paddled.
Day 3: With weather mizzly and a flat calm sea we made an 8am start to make sure we arrived at Cuan and Clachan Sound at suitable times.
We left camp at the islands NW of Clachan Bridge with a few seals and an otter seeing us off on this quiet paddle, anticlockwise to Easdale.
At 9.30am on a grey Sunday, Easdale seemed closed…maybe because they had a Ceilidh the night before! No coffee, so we grabbed our own snacks and headed for Cuan Sound before the flow picked up. All was straight forward apart from a few eddies hugging the northern shore, most being convenient, and we turned north along Seil Sound. A gentle opposing flow did not hinder us but the northerly wind picked up and strengthened so all our chatter stopped as we were determined to catch the narrows whilst there was still enough water to pass.
A short break for lunch was welcome in shelter before the Bar. Our plan was to set off through rougher water to the entrance to Loch Feochan. At the Bar, strong wind and big waves hit us and a seascape of whitecaps followed. Richard said to give it up to 15 mins and then see. Well, after 10 mins he asked if we were comfortable to continue for 1hr upto 1.5 hr. At least 3 of us said we’d had enough-already after a tiring day, so a retreat was made to our previous night’s campsite. Circumnavigation complete back to same campsite of the night before.
Tents up and us changed, the pub was calling. Walking over the hill we spotted wild orchids, Ragged Robin, cotton grass and others. Tigh An Truish at around 4pm was warm with good beer and coffee, most convivial. We walked over the Bridge over the Atlantic in our trousers, for tradition’s sake, but no one had a kilt to change into on return. The Jacobite rising long past.
A calm moonlit night followed. 21 kilometres paddled.
Day 4:
Following the previous windy day, we decided on an early start to ensure we had paddled the more exposed sections before the wind picked up as forecast, from 10am onwards. Setting off at 8am, we had reached Barncarry Bay within the hour, following a bumpy headland paddle. A shorter northerly crossing followed with the wind increasing from the north west into a steady force 4.
Once in the lee of Kerrera it was a gentle paddle back towards the Puffin Dive Centre, with lunch in the sunshine just south of the centre, a completely different day to the exposed windy morning crossings. 12 kilometres paddled.
A wonderful 4 day trip taking in some amazing scenery, wildlife and good company. A big thank you to Richard, Sue, Annette and Julian for making it very memorable.
GraemeW
Lakeland Canoe Club 