17 – 21 April 2024
Day 1 Neptune’s Staircase to Gairlochy Lock 11km
We met at the top of Neptune’s Staircase at the Fort William end of the Caledonian Canal. Nicola having stayed closest had already been to the end of the canal. A quick sort of kit and the drivers left for Inverness, while three remained to look after the kit and sunbathe for the 3 1/2-hour shuttle. Giles walked the end of the canal to dip his toe in the water.
The drivers returned by taxi and we finished sorting the boats and were on the water for 17:30 for a very pleasant 11km paddle to Gairlochy Locks and our first go at trollies with fully loaded kayaks. There is capacity for 6 tents to wild camp at the locks, and we had 5. There were already 2 guys with open boats, but we were OK.
Sally had purchased a key to the canal facilities, giving access to toilets, hot showers etc. A couple from Sheffield arrived just as it went dark and managed to find a place to camp.
Day 2 Gairlochy Lock to Leiterfearn on Loch Oich 26km
It started to rain around 6am, and lasted most of the day. After packing there was the first of many discussions on how best to get afloat. We set off with a Force 3 tail wind and made good progress up Loch Lochy, arriving at Laggan Locks at lunchtime. The café Sally remembered from 40+ years previously was long gone, but the Sheffield couple had found an unlocked storeroom, so we had lunch in there and Dan produced a birthday cake plus candle for Clare’s birthday.
We carried the boats round the lock, something we agreed we would not repeat, then paddled a lovely stretch of canal and into Loch Oich. The guide said there was only space for 8 tents at Leiterfearn, so we were a bit worried, however it could easily accommodate 30, however, the composting toilet had blown over.
Day 3 Leiterfearn on Loch Oich to Foyers on Loch Ness 29km
The day started dry with a gentle breeze as we completed Loch Oich and trolleyed round Cullochy Lock, the water now going downhill.
“Paddle UK describe Canoe Polo as the paddle sport team game, but perhaps there is another. Have you tried the Great Glen Canoe Trail in sea kayaks? The paddling is great of course; a mixture of tranquil, scenic canals and large lakes with big skies and mountains and forests to either side (there are particularly fine views of the north side of Ben Nevis on the first day). But then you have the portages around the locks; in groups of four, lifting fully laden boats onto floating (i.e. moving!) pontoons and around the railings, up a ramp to the tow path, onto trollies, and then reversing the process 200 yards further on to get back onto the water. Seven boats. Everyone ready? Brace! Lift! Seven lifts per person per portage; it is all a matter of teamwork!” Dan
We were getting into the swing of locks when we got to Kytra Lock, but while packing a trolley a wheel rolled off the pontoon into the surprisingly deep and dark canal. We asked the lockkeeper if they had a grappling hook, but that too was at the bottom of the lock!
There was now a stiff headwind as we paddling to Fort Augustus and the long portage down the flight of locks. We enjoyed hot rolls, tea and cake before completing the portage to the end of Loch Ness. Fortified we set off into a Force 4 headwind for the 19km paddle to the campsite at Foyes.
We arrived at 7pm to be greeted by a very friendly and helpful staff member who pointed out our camping spot on the immaculate grass just outside the reception. We nearly ordered fresh croissants for breakfast until we discovered they wouldn’t arrive until 9.30.
Day 4 Saturday 20th April Foyers on Loch Ness to Inverness 30km
We were on the water by 9am, leaving the campsite pristine again before most people woke up. We set off with a gentle tailwind and made good progress up the remaining 21km of Loch Ness. We had lunch at the end looking back over our journey.
We then just had 9km along the canal to Inverness, though the wind had veered round so yet again into a headwind. Having perfected portages, we did the last lock in under 45 minutes. Inverness Rowing Club pontoons were a perfect get out and a last trolley to the car park, then across the road to the Premier Inn for well-deserved showers, meal and the sharing of a huge sense of achievement.
Day 5 Sunday 21st April
Three of the group went to the end of the canal and dipped toes in the water.
Top tips:
· Campsites are limited, go out of the main season.
· Buy the key to the toilets – £15 but well worth it. (From the canal office in Corpach)
· Trolleys are faster than carrying but you still need to carry boats to and from the pontoons – we had 7 people, multiples of 4 would be much quicker!
· Have trolley wheels that float!
The team were: Annette, Clare, Dan, Giles, John S, Nicola, Sally
Poem by Nicola
Ben Nevis was all snow and sunshine,
At Fort William we packed our boats.
A 10K late paddle on the Cally Canal,
Along to Gairlochy it floats.
A comfy first night pitched under the trees,
Our camping gear neat & all dry,
A sunset, a meal, how perfect life is,
Owls hooted as night hours went by.
Oh dear what is this? The patter of raindrops,
Upon the tent canvas outside.
Earnest boat packing, all neatness forgotten,
On down the canal for the ride
Loch Lochy looked lochy in dreich morning drizzle,
But following winds spurred us on
We were soon into Loch Oich with a beautiful rainbow
(The pot of gold at the end was a con)
Portages were brutal, all heaving and swearing,
The pontoons as high as could be,
What on earth is being carried in these loaded boats
Other than cake and coffee and tea?
Disaster! A trolley wheel rolled into the canal
And stubbornly would not come out
Not quite enough wheels now left on our wagon
But teamwork is what it’s about.
Now here’s Fort Augustus, with lunch in the sunshine
Kilted bagpiper attracting a crowd
We soon opted to launch onto Loch Ness
Where the music wasn’t so loud
No sign of the monster as we paddled on
Thinking “this loch is terribly long”
A headwind sprang up , just to torment us
Our bodies weren’t feeling so strong.
But soon the delight of a proper posh campsite
With lawns, warm laundry and showers
A hot meal and fresh clothes, a tall story or two,
The pleasures of camping were ours.
The final day took our breath away,
Loch Ness was as calm as could be
We glided along, loving gorse and birdsong
And stopping for sandwich and tea.
Now the last of the lovely Caledonian Canal
Final miles to the Beauly Firth
Avoiding the weirs, which all end in tears
We reached our ultimate berth
Great Glen trip amazing, a true kayak journey
Variety, effort and fun
From sea to sea on the Great Divide
But boy am I am glad that it’s done!
Lakeland Canoe Club 